| Proper
care of solder irons and tips |
Most
iron tips today are a copper core surrounded by iron, hence
the term 'iron clad' that is then nickel or chrome plated.
Because solder won't stick to nickel or chrome the plating
on the chisel end of the tip is removed to expose the iron
cladding. Solder does stick to iron. To keep the tip from
rusting you must keep it coated with a layer of tin, hence
the term tinning. It will ensure that you are receiving the
maximum heat at the tip surface. You will extend the life
and improve the performance of your soldering iron and tips
by following a few simple guidelines:
Tip Care
1. Make sure to use good quality solder. Impurities in
the solder can build up on your tip, effecting heat transfer
and making it difficult to solder.
| Alloy |
Tin
‰ |
Lead
‰ |
Solid
to |
Liquid
at |
Pasty
Range |
| 50/50 |
50 |
50 |
361º |
421º |
60º |
| 60/40 |
60 |
40 |
361º |
374º |
13º |
| 63/37 |
63 |
37 |
361º |
361º |
0º |
·60/40
Solder: Composed of 60% tin and 40% lead, this solder melts
at 374 ºF, but doesn't become completely solid until
it cools to 361ºF. This means it has a "pasty range"
or "working range" of 13 degrees.
·50/50 Solder: This is composed of 50% tin and 50%
lead. It is liquid at 421ºF, solid at 361ºF and
has a range of 60 degrees.
·63/37 Solder: This solder is 63% tin and 37% lead.
It becomes liquid at 361ºF, solid at 361ºF, and
has a pasty or working range of 0 degrees. This solder is
called a eutectic alloy, which means at 361ºF, you can
go instantly from solid to liquid to solid just by applying
or removing the heat source.
·Lead-Free Solder: Depending on the specific mix of
metals, lead free will produce differing liquid, solid, and
pasty range temperatures. Check with the solder manufacturers
for these specifics.
2. Keep the
tip of the iron clean while you work. Have a damp sponge
handy to occasionally wipe your tip on while soldering to
keep it clean. Properly cleaned tips are bright and shiny.
Keeping it clean ensures you receive the maximum heat at
the tip surface. You can also use metal mesh pads made for
the same purpose.
3. Keeping the tip clean is important but constantly wiping
it on a wet sponge can cause early tip failure. Excessive
wiping causes the tip temperature to drastically rise and
fall and the different metal layers in the tip to repeatedly
expand and contract.This cycling leads to metal fatigue
and ultimately tip collapse. The more frequently you wipe
the tip, the more you stress it.
4. Avoid the practice of dipping your tip into flux in order
to clean it. Flux is corrosive. Never use sandpaper or any
abrasive material to clean a tip. The best way to minimize
your tip maintenance is to find a good quality solder. Use
solder that has a high tin content and high metal purity.
5. At the end of a soldering session, wipe the tip clean,
flood the tip with solder (63/37 or 60/40 is best), wipe
it again and then unplug the iron. This will flush and re-tin
your tip, protecting it from oxidation and corrosion.
6. Prevent the tip from seizing (becoming stuck) in the
barrel by loosening the nut or screw that secures it. This
is an especially good practice when storing your iron. If
your tip seizes, you can easily damage the heating element
trying to remove it. It is best to return your iron to the
manufacturer for removal.
7. When reinserting tips, make sure they are properly seated
in the barrel
8. If your tip becomes "blackened," and isn't
coming clean using the wet sponge, you might try a tinning
block or a brass brush. A "tinning block" (sal-ammoniac)
is used by placing a small amount of flux on the block and
rubbing the tip of your hot iron in it.Wipe the tip on a
damp sponge to remove debris. You may need to repeat this
several times if your tip is very dirty. Do be aware that
the sal-ammoniac block is abrasive and excessive use can
wear away the iron cladding, exposing the copper core and
making the tip unusable. You can also gently use a soft
brass bristle brush to clean your tip and then re-tin.
Soldering
Iron Care
1. Always place
your soldering iron in a stable iron stand whether it is
being used or not.
2. Make sure you plug the iron into the correct type of
outlet.
3. Try not to use an extension cord. If you must, use a
heavy duty one.
4. Regularly check the cord for burns or cracks and have
a professional electrician replace worn cords before using.
5. Make sure that the cord is not hanging in such a way
that it can be pulled off of the table.
6. Don't drop or bang the iron. Ceramic heaters are especially
easy to crack or break.
7. Do not allow the iron to idle at operating temperatures
for extended periods. This could burn out the element or
even the iron. If you are using a rheostat, turn it down
to a low "idle" setting. If not, unplug the iron.
8. Occasionally, remove the tip and lightly tap the barrel
of wire wound heater irons to remove debris.
9. If you will not be using your iron for an extended period
of time, you may want to store it (after it has fully cooled)
in a zipper type bag to protect it from corrosion and humidity.
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